![]() ![]() However, whenever i try looking for a 3D printer with FDM/FFF technology, i usually get all sorts or results from printers that either have no data on what printing style they use, or they use different styles not mentioned in these models. What i understood so far is that SLA / SLS printers are very expensive and range from 4 to 5 digit values, which would not apply to my needs at all, since i plan on printing smaller models for display only. I did a bit of research, but unfortunately, since i am from germany and google is relatively biased to where you live, the information is very crude. These models usually come in different variations for different printers, for example versions for FDM/FFF Printers, that usually consist of multiple smaller parts to stick together, or versions for DLP/SLA/SLS printers, that come in fewer parts. However, since i am a total noob on this subject, i am already lost at the choice for the style of printing. Thank you for your reply! I actually looked up some 3D models on websites that already seemed to have taken the models out of MWO and added supports/joints to them. They will help to remove any print lines visible on flat surfaces to prevent that "3d printed" look. Generally these are much better than printing whole models at once as there is less to go wrong, plus you can always print off individual parts if anything doesn't print correctly the first time around.Īnd lastly get wet and dry sandpaper in 3-4 different grits. This can take a few tries to get right but again, it makes a big difference. Try and find a middle ground between completely encasing a model with too many supports but not using too few. Supports are your friends, without them you get crazy sagging bits of filament all over the place. I had a print going for about 36 hours and when it was done it was absolutely worth the extra wait. If you have something detailed, take your time with it. If you want a print done as quickly as possible it will look terrible. My first bit of advice that I can't stress enough is time = quality. I've been printing some out this week and learning through trial and error. Of course this is just what I picked up from hangout on host sites. Whatever your political opinions are on that debate, it will be hard to get parts if the company goes under or you dont want it shipped from China. The third you can keep trying to get model right, but sometimes the flawed print can be fixed with Dremel/sandpaper. Robo3D R1 As others have pointed out (and you seem to realize) its closed source-the physical printer BOM and models, as well as the code for the firmware and slicer. The first two considered "prototype" till original model gets flush out by user. (Some time may have added file charges.) The main problems I have heard of from printers is scale, un closed meshes, are rough models. It involves break open a game package import the object to a developer engine. The second way is game resources is harder. Depends on what is useable to your program. You may have to do the same but reverse file format. Than save/export it in a different format. I will take a model for printing open it in a viewer program. Even if a model is not for printing you may still be able to use it. As far as web sites go there are alot of good sites out there. ![]() The two ways I get my models is host web sites and pulling for game files. Do at own risk yadda yadda yadda.I don't print 3d models. Please be careful and don't scratch up your build plate like I did. Tweak and repeat until you find good settings per usual. Example: up3dtranscode.exe Cetus Benchy.gcode Benchy.umc 183.2 Set nozzle height farther from the bed and work down to what works. Use Cura or other to position your model in the chosen area, set your settings and make your gcode.Ĭhange gcode to up machine code with this. (I haven't figured out software leveling yet.) ![]() Here is how I am using Cura with my cetus. While the Up and Cetus software work surprisingly well, there simply aren't many options to get great prints. TL DR slicer make gcode > transcode and print with. ![]()
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